Lesson Level : 9
Crimp
lesson
1m 37s

Video Details

The focus is on a unique variation of the arm jump technique, utilizing a crimp grip where reaching over the top is not possible. Instead, the technique involves using the tips of the fingers to create a secure landing position. This particular method emphasizes finger strength and engages the forearms more intensively than traditional grips, allowing for improved strength and stability during jumps.

In this adaptation of the arm jump, the depth of the crimp holds is only a couple of centimeters. This limited reach significantly alters how the arm jump is executed, demanding a different approach to landing. The technique is described as beneficial for enhancing finger strength, as it relies heavily on the use of the fingertips rather than the entire hand. The adjustment in grip enables climbers to manage their weight distribution effectively while jumping.

The crimp arm jump can be complemented by using the thumb in conjunction with the fingers, but only when the setup allows for it. Due to the specific dimensions of certain holds, climbers may need to adapt by focusing solely on fingertip engagement. Overall, this method can be quite effective and should be practiced whenever the opportunity arises in climbing situations.

Key Points:

  1. The crimp arm jump utilizes the fingertips rather than full hand grips to enhance finger strength and forearm engagement.
  2. The depth of crimp holds is crucial, as it alters the landing mechanics and weight distribution during jumps.
  3. While thumb engagement can enhance the grip, climbers should adapt their technique based on the specific dimensions of the holds available.
Note: This video summary is generated by AI from the video transcript and may not always be accurate.

The Lesson

Demonstrate a standing arm-jump (aka Cat-Leap) from 6-steps (heel-to-toe) away, onto a chest-height or higher ridge, ledge, shallow edge or feature that only allows the first two phalanges (distal and intermediate) of your fingers to catch the wall.

Landing with knees bent, one leg higher than the other. One at hip-height, and underneath you. Landing feet first, then hands.

Arms must be bent on landing. Must be on the front edge corner of the wall.

Hold for 3 seconds.

Repeat three times.

Takeoff two feet from the jump. You cannot lean in without a jump into the arm-jump.


Challenge Details
Guidelines to successfully accomplish the challenge.
distance.
Must be more than x6 times the distance of a Foot-Step (toe-to-heel)
+ / -
You can use any distance that is more than specified.
Multiplier
x6 times the specified amount.
Details
Distance must be 6-steps or greater.
width.
Must be less than x1 times the width of a Second (intermediate) phalange
+ / -
You can use anything that is less than specified.
Multiplier
x1 times the specified amount.
Details
Ridge must only allow the second (intermediate) phalange of the finger to be over the top edge, or less.
repetitions.
You must complete 3 repetitions
+ / -
You can repeat more than specified.
Details
Three repetitions in total.
duration.
The duration must be 00:00:03
+ / -
The duration can be more than specified.
Details
Hold for three seconds.
landing.
Your landing must be One foot or Both Feet (Ball of the foot)
Momentum
Your momentum should be Stopped once you have landed.
Details
Landing both feet first.
takeoff.
Your takeoff must be Start with both hands and both feet.
Momentum
Your momentum should be Stopped once you have taken off.
Details
Takeoff both feet.
hands.
The hands must be Hands on front edge of wall
Details
Hands on front edge of ridge.

Transcript
																									
5.2
so we have a very slightly different
7.399
type of arm jump now we're going to use
10.48
a crimp where we can't get our fingers
13.679
over the top we're literally using the
15.599
ends of the fingers to land in the arm
18.64
jump position so I'm going to use this
21.359
up here it's sort of about a cent 2 cm
24.88
deep um which means yeah we can't get
27.56
our full hand over uh this is going to
30.199
really work the arm uh the finger
32.8
strength and working the forearms but
35.6
essentially this is another method of
38.44
Landing uh in the arm jump so let's give
41.12
that a
42.039
crack jump
47.76
up and here so I'm just on the ends of
50.32
the fingers we could go
53.28
up and come down but that finger
56.559
strength is just on the tips of the
59.039
fingers rather than bending at the
62.199
knuckle uh yeah we're at the top ends of
64.64
the flanges and the fingers uh this is
67.04
the crimp uh sometimes you you can get
69.439
your thumb underneath and like you're
72.24
you're squeezing with both thumb and
74.439
fingers uh but in this scenario that
76.68
bottom bit is a bit too wide so I'm just
78.84
using the fingers on top so yeah this is
82.24
the the crimp arm jump um if you can
85.119
find a situation where uh you've got
87.759
this then definitely give it a go
Subtitles (SRT)
1
00:00:05,000 --> 00:00:10,000
so we have a very slightly different

2
00:00:07,000 --> 00:00:13,000
type of arm jump now we're going to use

3
00:00:10,000 --> 00:00:15,000
a crimp where we can't get our fingers

4
00:00:13,000 --> 00:00:17,000
over the top we're literally using the

5
00:00:15,000 --> 00:00:20,000
ends of the fingers to land in the arm

6
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jump position so I'm going to use this

7
00:00:21,000 --> 00:00:27,000
up here it's sort of about a cent 2 cm

8
00:00:24,000 --> 00:00:29,000
deep um which means yeah we can't get

9
00:00:27,000 --> 00:00:32,000
our full hand over uh this is going to

10
00:00:30,000 --> 00:00:35,000
really work the arm uh the finger

11
00:00:32,000 --> 00:00:37,000
strength and working the forearms but

12
00:00:35,000 --> 00:00:40,000
essentially this is another method of

13
00:00:38,000 --> 00:00:41,000
Landing uh in the arm jump so let's give

14
00:00:41,000 --> 00:00:45,000
that a

15
00:00:42,000 --> 00:00:45,000
crack jump

16
00:00:47,000 --> 00:00:52,000
up and here so I'm just on the ends of

17
00:00:50,000 --> 00:00:56,000
the fingers we could go

18
00:00:53,000 --> 00:00:58,000
up and come down but that finger

19
00:00:56,000 --> 00:01:01,000
strength is just on the tips of the

20
00:00:59,000 --> 00:01:04,000
fingers rather than bending at the

21
00:00:62,000 --> 00:01:06,000
knuckle uh yeah we're at the top ends of

22
00:00:64,000 --> 00:01:08,000
the flanges and the fingers uh this is

23
00:00:67,000 --> 00:01:12,000
the crimp uh sometimes you you can get

24
00:00:69,000 --> 00:01:14,000
your thumb underneath and like you're

25
00:00:72,000 --> 00:01:16,000
you're squeezing with both thumb and

26
00:00:74,000 --> 00:01:18,000
fingers uh but in this scenario that

27
00:00:76,000 --> 00:01:21,000
bottom bit is a bit too wide so I'm just

28
00:00:78,000 --> 00:01:24,000
using the fingers on top so yeah this is

29
00:00:82,000 --> 00:01:27,000
the the crimp arm jump um if you can

30
00:00:85,000 --> 00:01:31,000
find a situation where uh you've got

31
00:00:87,000 --> 00:01:31,000
this then definitely give it a go